Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently defined its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to discover these stories and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
